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Hyphenated,
Do you think your process is consistent and repeatable? I might be afraid I wouldn't get it the same on each round given the press/shellholder isn't bottoming out to create the same stopping point each time. For me at least.
 

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i struggled with this for a while also, after a few failed attempts, i discovered that using a nickel on top of the shell holder would allow me to make the taper crimp using the bullet seating die. the trouble with that, was that the shell got stuck in there, and i had to use the bullet seating adjuster to push the cartridge out, then back it off so i could do it again. of course, doing that required crimping a separate operation from seating the bullet. after a few months of this, i got fed up with it, and figured out that all that really needed to be done was to shorten the oal of the die. that would allow the cartridge to enter further, and allow the top of the shell to reach the taper crimp section of the die. my brother is a machinist, so it was way easier, and much more accurate, to have him chuck the die up in a lathe, and cut 0.080" off the bottom of the die. these are lee dies. another brand may need more, or less removed. i did not do anything with the fcd die. i will only use the taper crimp on the hornady brass. all the rest will be able to use the fcd if i desire to. this in no way affects any other part of the bullet seating die. i would suspect that a similar modification would work for the fcd, but, it would effect its use on all other brass. if you really want to fcd the hornady's, you will probably have to custom make a separate fcd die just for them.
I've just about resigned myself to purchasing a Hornady seating/crimping die for the crimp operation. They claim their standard seating/crimp die will crimp the LE brass. Either that or get another FCD and have a machinist friend modify it as you described. That would be cheaper than buying an FCD, sending it to Lee, pay for the mod, and ship it back.
 
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