Hey guys. I am an amateur gunsmith (more like a gun mechanic) and have done a few restorations in the past. I did some work on my three Marlins A model 60 that I got for cheap at a gun show http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/05/project-night-prowler.html http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2015/07/marlin-model-81-dl-project-part-2.html A model 81 DL .22 http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2015/07/marlin-model-81-dl-project-part-1.html A model 1895 Guide Gun in 45-70 http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/03/marlin-1895-mods.html One of my next projects is a model 1893 that needs a complete restoration
here are some of my other restoration projects: I have way too many shotguns and definitely wasn't looking for another one, but what can I say? My Father in law picked this project up for me at a yard sale for $40. It is a Remington model 58 12 gauge semi-auto, made in 1956, the walnut looks pretty good but the metal has pink rust spots. anyway, here is what it looked like when he brought it to me:
Dis-assembly, the trigger group is removed just like any other Remington 870/1100, just push out the two pins. The stock had two holes, one for the bolt and the other for??? In this picture you can see the action bar where it attaches to the piston (which is mounted in the front portion of the magazine, which is why the magazine only holds two rounds. The trigger housing is aluminum and the finish looks horrible, since I have not tried anodizing yet and a polished housing would look good on this gun, I decided to strip and polish it
OK now what? I guess I need to take this mess of parts and make a working trigger mechanism out of them While I was at it I polished some of the other parts I also polished the bearing surfaces of the hammer
After much cursing, dis-assembly and reassembly I finally have a working trigger mechanism now on to the steel The next step was to remove the rust and old bluing using naval jelly I then remove the remaining bluing along with the acid "etching" with the wire wheel on my grinder
Then we start removing the pits, starting with 120 grit emory cloth, then moving to 220 grit sand paper I kept moving up on the grit until I got to 2000 grit (wet/dry) sand paper, the metal is almost ready for bluing I then went to work on the barrel, there was a large rust pit on the magazine ring, I used a file to get it smooth again then I sanded the barrel to 600 grit and used the buffer to make it shine, the black stuff on the metal is buffing compound
When I blue a gun, I do more than one, more economical that way Done! I also jeweled the bolt and nitre blued the pins and charging handle
Before & After you can see the whole story here: http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/10/another-shotgun-project-remington-model_10.html
not a product, I mixed my own bluing salts using 1 part Sodium Nitrate to 2 parts Sodium Hydroxide along with distilled water
How was the inside of the barrel? Was there any pitting or any rust inside the barrel? It looks great!! Great Job wish I could do that! lol
no, the barrel looked good, I used a brass brush hooked to my drill to get it cleaned up. I have found that often the guns that get rusty due to neglect also have leaded barrels.... also do to neglect....kind of a blessing in disguise
Here is my model 60 that I fixed up for shooting vermin at my family's property in the sticks http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/05/project-night-prowler.html
and a Model 81DL that I repaired/refinished the stock, swapped out the scope and added a flip flop recoil pad http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2015/07/marlin-model-81-dl-project-part-1.html http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2015/07/marlin-model-81-dl-project-part-2.html
Finished another one, this one is a Western Field 740 (Marlin 336).....I had to blue it three times to get it right, but that happens sometimes.... http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2017/04/western-field-740-emn-reblue-x3-part-1.html http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2017/04/western-field-740-emn-reblue-x3-part-2.html Before and after pics: