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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
More good info learned from the top shooters at the Matches I go to. They all clean their triggers/trigger housing with Lighter Fluid. Being careful (if you dont remove the housing from the receiver) not to get any into the chamber area. Douse it good and flush out with Lighter Fluid. It cleans out and lubricates the trigger to sear contact. No other lubrication is needed. Works great. I clean my barrel/chamber and triggers after each match or practice session. Between cards I run a dry patch thru the bore. Barrel cleaning consists of a Wet patch with your brand of cleaner (I am now using Hoppes Elite) I also have went to round patches pulled thru from the back end with one of those Weed Eater type lines made to hold patches. I use 1.5" cotton ones.

I will also start doing the same thing on my hunting rifles and Pistols.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK four here is the information I have found:


Lighter Fluid is Naphtha Which is also called White Gas
It is distilled from crude oil

It contains Naphthenes which are HIGHLY VOLITILE and is used for solvents and cleaners.

Also in almost equal volumes is Paraffin which is a lubercant. Yes Paraffin Wax comes from crude oil.

The Napthenes evaporate and some of the Paraffin is left as a residue. thats where the lubrication comes from.

Thanks for asking as I learned something today also ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another trick used by ARA & PSL shooters is brake cleaner then blow out with compressed air. Just have to be careful if you have a wooden stock & don't pull the action.
Thanks cs700 .... I use brake cleaner for cleaning when I do a compete tear down. The lighter fluid is used then also. I carry those cans of air in my range box. Break cleaner leaves no residue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On installing the Jewell trigger in my 40X there is a slight problem with the bolt release. The trigger guard presses against it and prevents it from fully depressing to release the bolt. today I will relieve the section on the trigger guard. The bolt can still be removed by depressing the release from the top of the action but the bolt release was an additional option of the trigger so I want it to function properly. The instructions for the trigger installation stated that some stock/trigger guard may have to be relieved for proper functioning. Every stock and bedding job is a little different and there is no one size fits all.

Also I will continue to adjust the pull weight for the trigger. I am adjusting it down in .10 inch pounds increments till I get it where I like it. Already there is NO deviation (that I can detect) in each pull. I obtained a .05 allen wrench yesterday from Grizzley. No single wrench so I had to buy a set that contained it. I now have 22 more wrenches to add to my collection. They do have the ball on one end so works great at an angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The trigger guard has been filed down where it sits in relation to the Bolt release on the 40X. Just needed a 1000th or so. Works like a real one now.

Have the Jewell Trigger tuned down to a .98 oz pull weight. On 10 straight pulls on the Lyman trigger gauge had readings of .8, .9, seven 1.0 and a 1.1. Thats a deviation of .03. No detectable deviation in pull weight when squeezing the trigger. No really a squeeze, just touch it and it fires. So far always cocks and no slam fires. Shot about 25 rounds thru and all is good for now. Will shoot some cards and see how I like it there. Still have some room for lowering it. The "Flavio Fare" trigger I really wanted is listed as going to .5 oz pull weight. I wish there wernt out of stock.... :(

Have missed connection with 4 calls on the Bulzeye Optical Booster. I am getting ready to call him again.
 
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