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Not wanting to hijack SWO1's thread about CCW Training, here is a related topic.
Directed at SWO1 as well as many others on this forum;
I have every confidence in your knowledge and abilities with a hand-gun.
For that very reason, please give any ideas, comments or related articles.
Below is an article that I have saved and read thru many times. I agree with most of what it says although, in many ways, it addresses only the basics. For those that are fairly new to handguns, this may be of some help. The author is unknown. At the very least, it's a thought provoking read.
Hand Gun Choices;
Hand Gun Choice is a matter of personal preference.
First the gun must first be a natural pointer using the Applegate method. If you don't understand this concept read Bullseyes Don't Shoot Back. This concept is not negotiable. Practice instinctive point shooting in the dark, without use of sights at ranges from contact to 15 feet. At close range your attention is target focused, not sight focused. You are not looking at the sights you are not watching his hands. Point the gun as an extension of your finger, eyes always on the target. If the grip angle is wrong or the grip doesn't fit and you cannot get the first shot off and hit a paper plate in 1 second, it is a deal breaker. My own preference is for a gun which can be carried safely with the chamber loaded, and which can be fired immediately in double-action using a natural continuous trigger stroke, without having to manipulate an external safety. Examples which work for me are the Walther PP, Mauser HSc, and Beretta INOX Tomcat (which has the heavier slide than the blue version - mine has fired over 200 rounds with no problems). These are only lower profile substitutes for a DA only .38 snubby loaded with http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=765718.
X38PD if a social situation, say either tux or bathing suit, T-shirt and flip-flops, won't handle cylinder bulge.
Second, the gun must be safe, rugged and reliable. Shoot not less than 500 rounds to "shake down" any carry gun before staking your life on it. No malfunctions which cannot be cleared at the user level in 2 seconds or less are unacceptable.
Third, Practice with the gun. Don't complicate things by changing to different guns or holsters whenever your socks get dirty.
Fourth, when using marginal calibers shot placement, use of multiple hits and penetration are key. Many guns do not feed reliably with hollow-point ammunition. Remember what I said about firing 500 rounds. Hollow-points which do expand often fail in penetration, even if they feed OK. It's better to use .32 ACP hardball which always feeds, dump the magazine at the threat and run like hell, than to get your brains bashed in and both arms broken with a baseball bat while you are clearing a jam.
If you carry a little gun and try to stand and fight you'll never live to shoot them all. A mouse-gun buys time to escape from the kill zone. That is all.
Directed at SWO1 as well as many others on this forum;
I have every confidence in your knowledge and abilities with a hand-gun.
For that very reason, please give any ideas, comments or related articles.
Below is an article that I have saved and read thru many times. I agree with most of what it says although, in many ways, it addresses only the basics. For those that are fairly new to handguns, this may be of some help. The author is unknown. At the very least, it's a thought provoking read.
Hand Gun Choices;
Hand Gun Choice is a matter of personal preference.
First the gun must first be a natural pointer using the Applegate method. If you don't understand this concept read Bullseyes Don't Shoot Back. This concept is not negotiable. Practice instinctive point shooting in the dark, without use of sights at ranges from contact to 15 feet. At close range your attention is target focused, not sight focused. You are not looking at the sights you are not watching his hands. Point the gun as an extension of your finger, eyes always on the target. If the grip angle is wrong or the grip doesn't fit and you cannot get the first shot off and hit a paper plate in 1 second, it is a deal breaker. My own preference is for a gun which can be carried safely with the chamber loaded, and which can be fired immediately in double-action using a natural continuous trigger stroke, without having to manipulate an external safety. Examples which work for me are the Walther PP, Mauser HSc, and Beretta INOX Tomcat (which has the heavier slide than the blue version - mine has fired over 200 rounds with no problems). These are only lower profile substitutes for a DA only .38 snubby loaded with http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=765718.
X38PD if a social situation, say either tux or bathing suit, T-shirt and flip-flops, won't handle cylinder bulge.
Second, the gun must be safe, rugged and reliable. Shoot not less than 500 rounds to "shake down" any carry gun before staking your life on it. No malfunctions which cannot be cleared at the user level in 2 seconds or less are unacceptable.
Third, Practice with the gun. Don't complicate things by changing to different guns or holsters whenever your socks get dirty.
Fourth, when using marginal calibers shot placement, use of multiple hits and penetration are key. Many guns do not feed reliably with hollow-point ammunition. Remember what I said about firing 500 rounds. Hollow-points which do expand often fail in penetration, even if they feed OK. It's better to use .32 ACP hardball which always feeds, dump the magazine at the threat and run like hell, than to get your brains bashed in and both arms broken with a baseball bat while you are clearing a jam.
If you carry a little gun and try to stand and fight you'll never live to shoot them all. A mouse-gun buys time to escape from the kill zone. That is all.