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Discussion Starter #21
Trust me...

a shout out to midwest gun works! I ordered a tune up kit late monday i think, and it arrived as ordered today. Great service. Guess i'll have to try moparman's "hot cold bluing" method. I have a full weekend of shooting planned so i'll try it next week.
trust me.take your time and it will come out a deep,deep black and then coat it with gun oil and put the gun away without touching the metal.if you go to the range after shooting it just wipe the bluing down and not touch it.most rust comes from the salts and minerals in your hands not water,unless you keep your gun outside.i just looked at a old 32-20 galley pump gun i did and it was rusted solid and did not work.the guy told me what he wanted i told him the price and we signed the recipt.the gun came out better than i even thought it would have come out.i took the whole gun apart and put it on my wire wheel til all the rust and 90% of the pitting came out.i re blued that gun 2 dozen times.it looked great.i sanded the wood and put a walnut stain on it then clear coated it with flat car clear coat.then rubbed it.i took in all the parts and polished them.the gun was an old carnival gallery gun.the guy refused to pay me.we had it in writing.so i kept his down payment and the gun.i have a box or two of 32.20 super expensive.but it is really not a shooter.it shoots fine but i don`t bring it out much just to show people.i did that gun over six years ago and it looks like i did it yesterday.trick is to degrease your gun perfectly after you run a scratch pad or some steel wool over it then tack rag it to get any dust off it..heat that aluminum can til it id almost red.believe it but the rag is really hot but you can touch it.go down the whole barrel i motion til it is covered,let dry re blue accordingly.then oil and do not thouch.you wil not be unhappy with the results but just dont put a fingerprint on that new bluing the next day you will have a perfect rusted fingerprint and you have to start over.the whole thing is to take your time,coat it go in the house and make a sandwich.wash your hands really good and re heat the aluminum cup and use a body shop non napth rag,no fuzzies or streaks.you can buy a whole box for 12 bucks and it will last you a year.i did a 1920 huge rusted double barrel duck gun half *ss and it still looks good,but i wanted more of a petina look on that gun.it hangs over my fireplace..i learned alot of tricks owning a gunshop for all those years,plus the body shop and my gunsmith had a magic wand he could fix anything.hope it helps.i post to save you guys some money and have totally unique guns.any urethane without a hardener,first will look like crap and any chemical you put on it.the clear will wipe off.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Purple..

I had an old beater yugo sks laying around.i took,sanded it down,bleached the beachnut stock til almost white and mixed a purple color,clearcoated the crap out of it and sanded it.polished it and threw the gun on my shop wall just because i wanted to show my craftsmanship.i had so many people ask me where i got that puple stock.they throught it was not wood til i took it apart and showed them the insides.a guy bought it and tried to make it full auto.the cycle rate on an sks is too slow and it will double feed and the gun wil explode.he brought it back all mad saying i sold him a broken gun.i told him first off miliary and surplus are sold as is and i see where you where filing on it trying to turn it full auto.the guy could have filed the part right off and it would have not been full auto.i called the atf and fdle came down and his wife bought it for him and as i cannot read minds he was a felon and it was a straw purchase.no matter what a person cannot have a gun in the house if they are a felon even if it is another famly members by law they are not even supposed to step foot in my shop.guys would come in and tell me straight up they where felons and a friend or wife was going to buy the gun.i would slow up the paperwork til the cops came and they would get arrested.you could dig up johnny cochran ans it is still a mandatory ten years in jail 250,000 dollar fine.the felon who did the straw purchase it was his third offense and he went to jail for life.i had death threats every week at one time i had a guy stalking me who i had sent to prison and he bonded out and told everyone if he was going to do ten years he was going to do life and kill me.they had the atf posted at my house.an atf agent played like he was a new employee the guy came in straight up gun in hand.if he was smart instead of talking he should have shot me.my one empoyee was one the left side of the shop,the atf agent was on the right and as the boss i ran the counter,so he had 2 1911`s pointed at him and a glock 40 caliber.in all rights we should have shot him to death,even the atf agent said he was waiting for my move and they where both gonna shoot.i showed no fear because as he was spouting off i had a 1911 pointed right at his guts or nuts.needless to say he was not ready to die and cried like a girl because that was his third offence and in a federal building.i was at court dozens and dozens of times over idots like that.it was a pita but i never worried for my life ever.the atf and fdle don`t mess around they have the power to say you are a terrorist against america and then you are not an american.you have no american rights.they throw you in a hole somewhere and no one sees you again.i saw it happen to a six year iraq vet that said one too many things bad about the government on fb and they went right to his house and took him.i will find out more details.i disagree with things the
govenment does but never go over the line.civilians do not understand and this is true if they say your a homeland threat they come in the middle of the night and take you just like 1938 germany.by just saying what i am saying something could happen.be careful my fine friends
 

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Red 94's

Mopar,
Years ago I worked in a bluing shop. The one gun we had trouble with to get a good finish was the receiver of the 1894 Winchester levergun. They almost always turned purplish. Have you ever run into that problem? We figured it out but it took several attempts.

You mentioned you had a gun shop for awhile. Just wondered if you did any bluing also?
I have seen a red reciever on a '94 Winchester...in a gun dealers shop. He said he had the gun restored, it had been in a house fire. When I asked him about the reddish hue of the reciever he told me the gunsmith thought it was cute. I did not.
 

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1894 receiver

I have seen a red reciever on a '94 Winchester...in a gun dealers shop. He said he had the gun restored, it had been in a house fire. When I asked him about the reddish hue of the reciever he told me the gunsmith thought it was cute. I did not.
High nickel content and too hot temp when bluing will cause the red tint. I don't know what the high temp is in a bluing tank anymore...too long ago. But I know when we got a 94 in we took special care to get the parts into the tanks early, before the high temp was reached. Seems to me it was something like 295 degrees. The bluing salts in the water raises the boiling point way up. Anyway, the red has to be removed either with an acid bath or by polishing it off. If the metal is as smooth as it can be made...because of pits or other surface blems that can't be polished out...anything that will un-blue the red parts will let ya see if the metal needs a hot acid bath. I would do a cold blue once the red is out. I don't know if this will work, but a hot bath in clear water wont red the gun but may help with the depth of the cold blue finish. If you are doing this yourself make sure the parts get plenty of WD40 or Barricade, and let it run off after you cool the gun and rinse it in clear water when you are satisfied with the depth of coloration and the blue is nice and even.

I don't know if you wanted all that info but if you can get the gun cheap, and want to refinish it, it may turn out to be a nice rifle. BUT...if it has gone through a fire, the metallurgy may have changed and the rifle may not be safe to fire.
 

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Well I see I came to the party late on this one. What a great thread. Thanks to Moparman and everyone else for all the cool tips. This was just like going to gunsmith school.

I have an older Marlin SC with very thin bluing. I have already done the wood, but was hesitant to mess with the bluing myself because I have never had a cold blue turn out nice. I might give this a go.
 

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I decided to not try the cold blue method. I spent the money for the new parts, and want to go all the way and refinish the gun correctly.

I'm going to try rust blueing it. Have to wait for the bucks for chems and water tanks.
 

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You have inspired me to try this on some rifles that could use some help. Any particular/specific products you recommend? Please..brand names, whatever are welcome. I wish I lived close to a person with your experience/knowledge about gun refinishing. Not sure if you mentioned it but do you do work for others? Thanks, Oldbird13
 

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Hey guys,

I'm stoked, after reading these post on rebluing.
It would be great to have a sticky on the subject.
Sorry for any grammar errors Big Shrek! Lol

I would really like to try this out on a couple of
wall hangers!
This is now a sticky
 

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AKA Richard Prestage
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I tried the cold blue method on an old .22 about 45 years ago and it did not turn out to good. Evidently the process has evolved somewhat!! (I was only 15) This thread has given me the urge to try it again. Glad it's a sticky!!!
 

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I just today received my Van's bluing in the mail. Cool Saturday and good for a project to get going on.
I already had the gun totally stripped to bare metal and it actually looked like it was made out of stainless. I used some break cleaner and degreased the gun even though I had done it the night before also.
I wore gloves to keep my hand oil from getting on the gun and keep the bluing acids off my hands. I made sure I had eye protection since I didn't need lose an eye to splattered bluing acids. Had some white t-shirts for wiping the guns down when needed.
I heated the gun and the separate cylinder with a hair drier to a hot to the touch feeling. I used a new soft bristle tooth brush to apply the Van's as instructed to use. The first coat seemed to be sort of splotchy and even though the Vans turned the metal instant black it ended up not being very dark let alone wasn't black when I wiped it down after two minutes as instructed.
I did maybe three more applications heating the metal each time before applying the Van's. The coverage was more even each time and was covering better each coat but really wasn't getting much darker. The finish was more like a dark metal gray color like when I had stripped the old bluing but hadn't sanded or polished it to a bright white finish.
The instructions say leaving the solution on longer would provide a darker color and used to get a black finish. So I set my timer for 10 minutes and started applying more bluing and kept the bluing wet with the tooth brush because directions said not to let the bluing become dry. While doing this the metal looked almost black which is what I wanted for color. After 10 minutes I dried off the bluing liquid. The finish had gotten darker but still not black metal look. Each additional coat the finish did seem to get more even coated and was getting a little noticeable darker finish. I figured after 8 applications and it wasn't getting any darker I might as well quit wasting any more of the bluing. I guess I used a little more than half the 4 oz. bottle.
I wiped down the gun and cylinder and went outside to see how it looked in direct sunlight. I would say it has more of a brownish to gray look than a black blued finish.
Directions said put the gun in oil to stop the chemical reaction and keep rust from appearing. So it is in a bag of oil and tomorrow I will clean it and see what kind of results I end up with. Supposedly the oil will make the bluing appear darker then. I hope so but I am not expecting much difference.
I guess maybe should have gone with the Orpho Bluing. If push comes to not satisfied then that will be next to try. I sure hope I am surprised tomorrow.
 

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Here are the results. What is your opinions of it? Compared to old 1982 Rossi 38 special. It is hard to get pictures to really show real coloring. In person the Colt finish is more brownish looking finish than the jet black of the Rossi. I don't know I might like this as it looks more of a natural old worn finish look.
The camera actually brings out more of the brown than is noticed in real life appearance like in the first pic.
 

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I've tried Van's before and prefer Brownell's Oxpho (liquid) much more. I've had good success with it by heating the part to be blued with a heat gun and applying the Oxpho on a patch of 0000 steel wool. Allow to dry, wipe off, and reapply to your liking.
 

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I haven't done a revolver with it. I have used on Milsurp rifles - Mausers, etc. Here's an 1895 Chilean Mauser I cold-blued the barrel. Sorry that the picture is not better:
 

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AKA Richard Prestage
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That's a good job mh. How many times did you have to go over it?
 

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Ron that rifle does have nice blue finish to it.
My Colt looks black just not a bluish black. I guess I am going to leave it as it is now. It looks much better than before I re-blued it. It now looks more like an older finish rather than a worn off finish.
I shot the Colt for the first time today. It is more accurate than I am. It is fun shooting without much recoil from .32 ammo. I went through 50 fairly quick.
 

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AKA Richard Prestage
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Nice, uniform finish Mon! You do good work.
 
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