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Hot bluing from cold bluing

16061 Views 50 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  SWO1
Anyone ever try to cold blue a gun or receiver even with the paste and it comes out thin with stripes no matter how many coats.i have a cure and it makes it dark.i take a aluminum cup a heavy one from like the bottom of a canteen i pour the bluing in there all be it paste or regular with a non napth rag or swab without lint.this is for caution as bluing is mostly acid.i open the garage door and take a propane torch and put it on the cup not breathing the chemicals i already have gun degreased and ready to go.i get the bluing just about to the boiling point but it cools fast.i take the blued soaked rag out of the aluminum cup and wipe it down the length of the barrel the hot bluing turns almost black and bites right into the metal.let dry for 15 minutes or so re heat the cup and do it again and when you are done to you color of bluing desired wipe it down with oil and put it away without touching the metal.i refinished alot of customers firearms that way,as metal is porus and when you heat the rag and rub it down it changes the molecular structure of the metal to open up and literally soak up the bluing into the works 100% of the time.i guarentee old body mans trick but for other solvents you will not be dissapointed.if your barrel is super rusted run the barrel up and down a grinding wheels wire side and take off all the finish and all the pits then go over it with steel wool in the correct orders to you get 4 ot and degrease then instead of cold bluing just running off as it always does it bites right into the metal not one streak or splotchy area.
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Hey Gumpy, straightshooter, and Marlindude. If I remember correctly, I went over the barrel of the Mauser about 5-6 times. Could have gone over it many more times since it goes quickly but I didn't want to make a 119 year-old barrel look too new. And the Oxpho is about the most durable cold blue I've found. Marlindude, that is a very nice finish you put on that revolver! That picture is more representative of what the Oxpho can do than the one I posted. Nice job!
Thank you for the kind comments Gumpy and Mauserhooked! The revolver is a S & W 17-6, 22lr, it looked like a blood gun, I've heard them say. It still needs some work but I'm happy with the look. I'm a painter by trade so it kinda goes with what I do but with my hobby, Life is Good as Hickcok45 says on YouTube ! Anyway heres a few more pics!
Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel Gun accessory
Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel Gun accessory
After or so far
Wood Bumper Musical instrument Automotive lighting Automotive tire
Rectangle Auto part Metal Household hardware Fashion accessory
About midway 3 or 4 coats
Gas Wood Circle Electric blue Auto part
about 8-10 coats

The more passes or coat you do the more deep bluing you get.
Patience is the key, let the bluing work.

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The blue black finish is what I couldn't get the vans to create. I would say after 4 coats the finish wasn't getting any deeper black or blue tint to the finish. After 8 coats and still not darker I called it quits. The finish came out an even black but more of a bronze tint than a blue tint. So much for Van's in my opinion.
I purchase a different product that I want to try out . It's Birchwood Casey, Super Blue it's also for touch ups.
The main point that I learned is to go by the directions. My revolver still needs work though but it's coming along.
Good luck with yours!

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As soon as I can get some extra assets,(what's that lol) I've got a Mauser that needs doing. It'll be after deer season though.
Interesting thread. You guys do good work. I will redo the Marlin .35 Rem this winter. Of the ones I've done in the past used the Birchwood Casey stuff and it came out OK, just not a dark blue/black like I hoped. Will try some of the stuff on this thread.
SW01, another thing I like about the Brownell's Oxpho is that the firearm/part doesn't have to be totally clean of oil to use it. I always do a thorough job with multiple cleanings with denatured alcohol or mineral spitrits though just to be anal about it. Good luck with your project.
Thanks for the info Mauserhooked ..... Im a thinkin that is the one I will try. Never hurts to have it Spanken Kleen .... :)
Thanks for the info Mauserhooked ..... Im a thinkin that is the one I will try. Never hurts to have it Spanken Kleen .... :)

I agree, I use denatured alcohol and or acetone before mineral spirits which can leave an oily residue. In the old days we used a little on a rag for a tack rag after preparation and before painting. Now at work after preparing metal and before applying epoxies and urethanes I use MEK for my cleaner, final tack before painting.
I get better results doing it this way.
Be careful, flammable,
Here s a post from another forum on gun blue products.
I keep seeing best results with Oxpho for blued black finish.
Thanks for the link straightshooter. The Oxpho is what I will try.
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