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Discussion Starter #1
Marlin 336 30-30 new or used?

I'm looking to get another marlin 336 30-30.
my first one is used,I'd like to get another one,I have the money to get brand new,but I read a lot of reviews that say better to stay with the older ones.
just looking in here to get real advice.
I saw a couple in the gun store friday,I'll go back on monday and look at them again.
 

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I see it this way...if I want a knockabout shooter I would get a new one with a warranty and then I would shoot the hell out of it.

If you want a nostalgia gun, or a "kinda collector gun", or a definitely collector gun, get a pre-cbs rifle, just realize you may have denied me of my chance to get one of those nice collectable guns and may never get a chance to find another one fer me dear old ma who suffers from the dropsey and consumption and iron poor blood and lack of intrest and other such maladies and just gettin one of those nice wall hangers would just make her weak old heart flutter with enjoyment one last time before she heads off to that last big bank job in the sky.:eek:
 

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Rich,
Contrary to years past, buying a new Remington built Marlin can be problematic. Since production was moved to Ilion, NY there has been a tremendous increase in rifles that were found to be poorly fitted, exhibit cycling problems, sights not indexed properly, etc.

There seem to have been improvements over the past 24 months but still not to the level that would suggest you could purchase a brand new Marlin without checking it's fit and function in person.

This is not meant to discourage you from buying new, just to make sure you take the time to examine any new Marlin just as you would a used one. There are some fine used examples offered in various online firearms sale/auction sites as well as gun shops and forums like this and others.

I purchased a used 1984 model 336TS in .30-30 almost a year ago from a fellow forum member. The transaction turned out well, but I did my homework prior to dropping the money.

Good luck in your search.
 

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It kind of ticks me off the price of new 336 30-30s at Wal Mart compared to what I had to pay for basically the same gun in 357. My Remington built 94 took a bit of tuning to get it working perfect, but it was easy. I'd buy another one especially for the price of the 336.
 

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I am all ears...

It kind of ticks me off the price of new 336 30-30s at Wal Mart compared to what I had to pay for basically the same gun in 357. My Remington built 94 took a bit of tuning to get it working perfect, but it was easy. I'd buy another one especially for the price of the 336.
Duster,
I keep hearing the word "tuning" a 336 or whatever, to smoothe em out.

I am not askinig for instructions here, but what is involved in tuning? I am a clutz with small polishing tools. I leave the more elaborate disassembly to those who know how. But, What do you do when you tune a rifle?
h

Speaking of being all ears... I just got a high and tight yesterday and I was told now I look like a taxi cab goin down the road with the doors wide open.:rolleyes:
 

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It kind of ticks me off the price of new 336 30-30s at Wal Mart compared to what I had to pay for basically the same gun in 357. My Remington built 94 took a bit of tuning to get it working perfect, but it was easy. I'd buy another one especially for the price of the 336.
Don't feel bad, the 1894C's always ran about $100-200 more...for some reason .357 /.44 / .45LC always cost more...

I do prefer the Old ones...especially pre-crossbolt safety ones...
On the upside, if you do get one with a crossbolt and don't like it,
there's a Kit to remove it and replace it with a Saddle Ring...which is great for putting a leather sling on...
 

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Duster,
I keep hearing the word "tuning" a 336 or whatever, to smoothe em out.

I am not askinig for instructions here, but what is involved in tuning? I am a clutz with small polishing tools. I leave the more elaborate disassembly to those who know how. But, What do you do when you tune a rifle?
h

Speaking of being all ears... I just got a high and tight yesterday and I was told now I look like a taxi cab goin down the road with the doors wide open.:rolleyes:
This is the site I used. It will explain everything better than I could. It worked great, and was easy for me. http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm

But I caution you, if you are not good with your hands and don't have the tools pay a smith to do it. If you don't have the tools it means you don't know how to use them so buying them ain't enough. When they say "break the edges" or "polish" you need to know what that means before you do it. Breaking an edge means just that, and involves removing no more than a few thousandths of material. The idea is to hand finish the machining without changing any of the critical geometry.

If you really want to learn search the web...a bunch! Because some of what you find is garbage, some is good but technical, some is good but unclear...you get the idea. Then buy a few beater guns to practice on. It's best to get guns you can get parts for, so if you screw up you can try again and keep going until you figure it out and have a sweet tuned gun. Nearly all responsible guys recommend you stay away from the trigger and sear. It is very easy to screw that up and render the gun very unsafe. I'm ready to learn trigger work, but it takes jigs I don't have yet so I stay away.

Simple deburring, polishing, and spring work really is easy if you take the time to learn and practice on cheap guns.
 

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Hand me the saw please.

This is the site I used. It will explain everything better than I could. It worked great, and was easy for me. http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm ...
QUOTE]

Thanks Duster,

I have the page saved and looked up the book on Amazon. I doubt I will do anything to the action. If anything the trigger is a bit stiff but it is crisp and there is no slack. I think my smithing will be all on the top side. I need either a longer eye relief scope or a peep. I have to order the peep but I already have the long eye relief scope. That should do me.
Thanks for the explanation and the links. That answered everything I didnt want to know.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
well I'm off to one more gun shop this morning,and I'll either get a nice used one,or a brand new one!
thanks all for the replies.

...well after thinking it through a bit more...I will not be getting a rifle right now.
money can be used other places right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
well we went out the other night to the gun store...we got us another Marlin 336 30-30
we put it in layaway till monday night we'll pick it up.
pics will follow.1989 is the year..if I remember right.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)

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Dunno how good the Marlintons or Remlins are... Good to know that the safety hole can be replaced by a saddle ring! Anyone know where we can get the proper parts to do this to a .45-70 Marlin? Thanks
 

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I have just inherited a 3", Marlin Goose gun in very good condition. However, the gun is missing the bolt. Does any one know if I can purchase the proper bolt for this gun?
 

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Welcome to the forum,dreamer. I've had good luck finding gun parts on e-bay. Just do a search for the part you need. If nothing is listed,try emailing some of the sellers. They don't list all their parts. Good luck!
 

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Setting up my 336

New or used question? Allmost always older is better . I got my 92 closet queen for 200 bucks with a scope and soft bag.
Im cleaning it up and oiling the steel,it has some minor freckling but not enough to duracoat or similiar.no other issues, action very smooth. Im installing a set of truglo tfo sights first then down the road a red dot.
Ive slugged the muzzle and it reads .3115. Im not sure what powder for my first reloads. Bought some .311rnfp with hitech coating,which will be interesting.
Ill shoot some factory loads first though, and reuse the brass to get an accurite C..O.A.L
So far its been a fun project ,,cant wait to get to the range.
 
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