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Im thinking about 9mm supplies to add to the list the 9×19mm Parabellum is "the world's most popular and widely used military handgun cartridge.
 

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Lee Stand

I've got the stand ready for the Turret Press when It arrives. Top is made, but havn't attached it yet. Will wait and see where/how the press goes one before I counter sink Carriage Bolts (8) thru the rim of the stand. Bottom shelf is just 2X8s to sit 40lb bags of sand on for counter weight.

Lee wants $139 for their stand. Got two of these at a farm sale with galvinezed tubs for $2 each. No reason it should not work. A little sanding, some black paint, some scrap 2X lumber laying around and for less than $5 ....:D
Lee stand at Mid South is about $90. Still more than I want to spend But way less than factory cost. Midway is too high also.

I have been lookin for a reasonable alternative also. My little portable stand is just too weak in the knees and is wobbly. I have been looking at worktables like the WorkMate and those made by Skil. They handle a goodly amount of weight but it is the torque on the press edge of the table that I worry about. I don't want to tear the top off when I size bullets or full length size cases.
 

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Just wondering...

Is it necessary to clean brass after full length sizing, to remove sizing lube from the case? I use very little lube and haven't stuck a case, but I get greasy fingers handling the brass. More black than grease but it has to be the lube. I think it is more a "keep it clean" issue that a contamination issue, as the RCBS lube is supposed to be safe for the powder and the primer if "not too much" is used. Also, it is advised to roll the brush over the pad and lube the inside of the neck, but again, not too much lube. I skip this step but may start doing it.

Anyone want to relate their procedure? I am curious.:)
 

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I use the Lee Lube. Its in a tube like toothpaste. I dab a little on a Q-tip and lightly wipe the brass. Wipes pretty dry with a shop towel. If I do get some on my fingers I clean with shop cleaner ( same stuff for cleaning off oil/greese) hands wipe clean and dry with a shop towel.

My pistol dies are Carbide.....NO LUBE.....:D Any more dies will be Carbide also.
 

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Lee Case Lube

I use the Lee Lube. Its in a tube like toothpaste. I dab a little on a Q-tip and lightly wipe the brass. Wipes pretty dry with a shop towel. If I do get some on my fingers I clean with shop cleaner ( same stuff for cleaning off oil/greese) hands wipe clean and dry with a shop towel.

My pistol dies are Carbide.....NO LUBE.....:D Any more dies will be Carbide also.
I always forget to check out what product Lee has...in this case, case lube. Thanks for the tip.

I always get carbide dies for straight walled cases, but I don't think they are made in carbide for bottlenecks.

I am using the RCBS lube and when done resizing the 3030's I just run em through the liquid vibrasonic cleaner. Seems to work well but takes a day to dry. I don't have my hair dryer handy...it is in Iowa. I could run them trough a warm oven but I am in no hurry. Tomorrow I will need something to do so I will load some then.
 

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I always forget to check out what product Lee has...in this case, case lube. Thanks for the tip.

I always get carbide dies for straight walled cases, but I don't think they are made in carbide for bottlenecks.

I am using the RCBS lube and when done resizing the 3030's I just run em through the liquid vibrasonic cleaner. Seems to work well but takes a day to dry. I don't have my hair dryer handy...it is in Iowa. I could run them trough a warm oven but I am in no hurry. Tomorrow I will need something to do so I will load some then.
Carbide bottle neck rifle dies are made. Dillon and a couple others for sure. BUT they do say ya have to lube anyway....:(

The Lee Collet die Neck Sizes ONLY and they say NO LUBE for that. Its what I use for my .223 as I dont case size them. Only shot in my gun so they are chamber formed, and I dont use other peoples brass. I have plenty of Federal bulk to fire form.

The .308s go thru 4 different guns so have to full length size them WITH LUBE.

After researching Carbide Rifle Dies dont guess I will be getting any of those. NOT DILLON anyway. Dont see why they wouldnt work without lube for straight walled rifle like 45-70 or 444 tho..????
 

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I have some .38spc ammo that I bought at a gunshow a few years ago whould they happen to be loaded with 357 charge? A few of the spent cases have split after firing and I just dont trust them.Would the brass,bullet and primers be of any use.Since Im not sure of the powder they are charged with I would toss out.
 

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If they are reloads...Ya Never Know. I mark all my reloads with Info:

Powder, charge, primers, cases, bullets...AND HOW MANY TIMES THE CASES HAVE BEEN RELOADED. I would not use anyones reloads without knowing all this..FOR SURE !!
 

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Thank You SW be carefull of gunshows its more like buyer beware
I have only ever shot reloads from someone once. Got them from a well respected vendor at a large gunshow in Springfield. They were for the 30-40 Kraig I got from my father-in-Law. He Probley reloads and sells EVERY round made by mankind. He marks and labels his reloads with all info...that's why I do mine that way. His were marked loaded to match Remington Factory Ammo no longer made. I checked his data against 3 manuals and it was within all standards. SHOT REAL WELL. Old boxes of Kraig ammo were going for $45-50 at the show. His reloads were $13 for 20.
 

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I bought them they are in a Remington box thinking they are factory rounds.But when i shot them in my 686 I couldnt get them to eject from the cylinder.After bringing the spent cases home i noticed split cases which makes me believe they where loaded with 357 charge in a 38 case.Would the components be able to be reused.if i toss the powder? Does anybody reload 38 specials? Anybody Maybe want them? would it all be worth it or should I just toss them for safety reasons
 

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Split cases.....Hard to eject spent rounds....sounds like a pressure issue to me.

Wrong powder.....wrong charge for the bullet weight....Just plain over charged.

If the head stamp on the cases are Remington...they are probley the thinnest brass of the major brands. In which case above conditions would cause that.

Or if reloads....just recycled TO MANY TIMES.

I reload .38 Spcl.....Don't think I would want the brass or would I pass to along to anyone else.

Being revolver rounds the bullets are roll crimped so pulling them aint good.

I never reuse primers...to cheap to mess with

I would...pull the bullets...chuck em.

Dump the powder

punch out the primers....chuck em. (if no place to dispose of them fire the empty primed cases.....just messy cleanup afterwards )

pinch the brass necks shut and ......chuck em.

Hope you don't have to many.................:(
 

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I have some .38spc ammo that I bought at a gunshow a few years ago whould they happen to be loaded with 357 charge? A few of the spent cases have split after firing and I just dont trust them.Would the brass,bullet and primers be of any use.Since Im not sure of the powder they are charged with I would toss out.
Four4D4
Cut your losses Mate, toss them

But for interest sake, If you have, or know anyone who reloads, rip one apart and check the charge weight.
Problem is, you will not know type of powder, or primer used.
If overcharged, there would be pressures signs on the primer.
Split cases are not necessarily a sign of over pressure, more a sign of old or weak cases.

For your own safety, know the reloader, always insist on reload's data sheets, or else buy Factory rounds
Cheers Bucky
 

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Loading for 45 ACP; .308 and 7.62x54r.

I haven't been on for a couple weeks and the list was long so I marked all threads as read. Now it appears no one has posted anything in a couple days. I did report a possible spammer because when I signed on I saw 22 (#??) of what appeared to be spam posts. They weren't about guns. But, now there does not seem to be much activity so I want to post something to get something going here. Here goes:

Re: Reloading.
I have to order bullets but I did find some primers, powder (and cases for the .308) at a Scheels store 2 weeks ago. I did not find bullets cheap enough for my budget so I passed and will order online.

Right now, for the 7.62x54r I am going to load down and use plated bullets. I got it just for fun and maybe some woods walk plinking. If I see a 'yote I will see what the plated flat nosed solids will do. Then I will report, but don't hold your breath.

My little Aveo won't take too kindly to me forcin her out into the cold and deep snow way out in the boonies so we may have to wait for some more reasonable weather. No problem...I am using my car as an excuse. :rolleyes:

I have 500 bullets for the .308...200 x 150 gr Sierra round nosed sft points (I got for the 30-30) and 300 x 180 gr Winchester PSP that look like good longer range bullets.

When they come in I will be loading 230 gr plated truncated cone or plated hollow point lead bullets for the 45 ACP. I already have about 750 bullets for the 9mm. It took me a long time to find primers and powder after I came back from Texas but now I have enough to load some practice rounds. Time to get to shooting them up...as soon as the snow goes away enough that I can get my little weenie car down into the parking lot at our range.
 

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Bad loads

I bought them they are in a Remington box thinking they are factory rounds.But when i shot them in my 686 I couldnt get them to eject from the cylinder.After bringing the spent cases home i noticed split cases which makes me believe they where loaded with 357 charge in a 38 case.Would the components be able to be reused.if i toss the powder? Does anybody reload 38 specials? Anybody Maybe want them? would it all be worth it or should I just toss them for safety reasons
Heck, pull the bullets and reuse them. If nothing else melt them down if you cast your own. Don't chance heavy loads. It is not worth the danger. I am cheap so I save every component I can. Reload the cases too but go by the book and powder em up with the right stuff.

I got the hammer type bullet puller for about 12 bucks. It does not take too any pulled bullets to make up the cost.
 
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