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Johnson's Paste Wax or Liquid Lanolin. Take your Pick.
Both Work Great. The Wax works Better in Dry Dusty environments.
But, Lanolin Prevents Corrosion from Fingerprints.
I use Both. Wax First & Wipe Down after use w/ Lanolin.
CLP Maybe. Frog Lube - Great Revues. Never used it myself.
UncleSarge58
 

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Best external corrosion control for firearms. I am an old gunsmith. After I hot blue, the gun is immersed in an "after blue" oil I make myself. It is also excellent for wiping down existing firearms. An older than me gunsmith showed me how to make it. I live in hot, humid south Florida very close to seawater. The worst of everything.
Here is the formula:
STP (or similar)
Mineral spirits.
Mix approx 5 to 6 parts mineral spirits to 1 part STP.
Put a good wet coat on firearm. Allow it to drain/evaporate in a well ventilated area. Mineral spirits evaporate leaving tough oil film. Penetrates crevices, pits, etc while wet.
I've been using it for over 25 years. Haven't found anything better.
Also stop by a "smoke shop "and get camphor cubes. Put a couple in your safe and toolbox. Gives off an anti corrosion vapor. Learned that from old time machinists
 

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I have an Remington 1100 and a Marlin 336 that under normal light the metal looks good but shine a bright flashlight on the metal and then I can see the light film of rust as well as some pinhead size rust spots.

I am afraid even though I copper penny rubbed the metal to remove any surface rust then Ren waxing the metal that the rust could end up pitting the metal. I can still barely see the rust under the light.

I read that Kroil was a great penetrant and rust remover. The stuff isn't cheap for sure. I heard I can make my own by using 1 part acetone to 1 part ATF. I am wondering would there be any negative side effects to using this? I don't want to damage the wood or the bluing.

What do you think?
 

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Bronze wool (available at Ace Hardware) is far better than a copper penny. Rubbing with the penny shaves off tiny bits of copper into pits, smoothing the surface somewhat. The copper traps the rust deep in the pit however and will look better for a while, but the rust is still there. Bronze wool is better at removing rust and imbeds also. Good luck.
 

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Today I decided to clean the rust off my 336. I tried taking the front stock off but after removing the clamp I still couldn't remove the stock. I got on You Tube and found out what I had to do and how to do it. Gotta love YT,

I read that Kroil was good for removing rust and how to make an equivalent solution. 1 part acetone to 1 part ATF. So I mixed up just a little bit of it. Maybe an ounce of it.

So I got it apart and used a kitchen copper scouring pad for cleaning dishes to rub the rust off the barrel and magazine tube. I also used it on the receiver and lever which had some rust on them. It looked much better and I used Metal Gloss to remove the oil and acetone. Then I waxed it up with RenWax. I put it back together and it looks much better I think.

I don't use it since I don't ever hunt and I am thinking about selling it. I figured $400 since it is in good condition. I watched a YT video on the nightmare a guy had with his new 336 Remlin 45/70. Three guns later and he still said the quality and customer service sucked. Mine has the JM stamp and is a real Marlin made 336 in 30-30. I figure a person could take their chances spending $400 on a new Remlin and take your chances or spend $400 on my JM and have a quality 336.

I figure most would not go my price so I probably will just keep it. Will see, it might end up on Armslist just in time for deer season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Rig Grease and silicone gun socks
 
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